Pan-fry fish for crisp skin
The short answer
Dry the skin thoroughly, lay the fillet skin-side down in a hot pan with a little oil and press it flat for the first 20 to 30 seconds so it does not curl. Cook about 80 percent of the time on the skin, until it is crisp and the flesh has turned opaque most of the way up, then flip for the last minute. A dry skin and a hot pan are what make it crisp.
Step by step
1. Pat the skin bone dry with kitchen paper. Any moisture steams the skin and stops it crisping. 2. Season the skin with salt just before cooking. 3. Heat a heavy pan over medium-high until hot, then add a thin film of oil with a high smoke point. 4. Lay the fillet in skin-side down, away from you. Immediately press it flat with a fish slice or the back of a spatula for 20 to 30 seconds so the skin stays in full contact and does not curl. 5. Leave it alone. Let it cook on the skin for around 3 to 4 minutes. You will see the flesh turn opaque from the bottom up the sides. 6. When the skin is crisp and the flesh is opaque about 80 percent of the way through, flip it and cook the flesh side for 30 to 60 seconds. 7. Lift it out and rest it skin-side up so the skin stays crisp. The thickest point should read 55 to 60C. 8. Add a knob of butter and a squeeze of lemon to the pan at the end if you like.
Which fish it suits
Skin-on fillets with skin that crisps are made for this: sea bass, sea bream, salmon, trout, mackerel, red mullet and gurnard. The firmer the skin, the better the crackle. Thicker fillets give you more time to crisp the skin before the flesh overcooks.
Skinless fillets and very thin flat fish are not the ones for crisp skin, so pan-fry those gently in butter or bake them instead. Cod and haddock skin can crisp, though the flesh is delicate and needs a careful flip.
Tips / common mistakes
- Dry skin is everything. Pat it dry, and for the crispest result leave it uncovered on paper in the fridge for an hour first.
- Press the fillet flat at the start so the skin does not curl away from the pan and cook unevenly.
- Do not overcrowd the pan. Two fillets at a time keeps the heat up.
- Resist moving the fish. It releases cleanly once the skin has crisped.
- If the skin sticks, it usually is not ready to turn. Give it another moment.
Frequently asked questions
Why does fish skin stick to the pan? The pan was not hot enough, the skin was damp or the fish was moved too soon. A hot pan, dry skin and patience let the skin crisp and release itself.
Why does the fillet curl up in the pan? The skin tightens faster than the flesh. Press it flat with a spatula for the first 20 to 30 seconds and it stays flat and cooks evenly.
What oil should I use to pan-fry fish? A neutral oil with a high smoke point such as rapeseed or sunflower. Add butter at the end for flavour rather than at the start, since it burns.
Should I cook fish skin-side up or down? Skin-side down for most of the cook, around 80 percent of the time, then a brief flip to finish the flesh. That crisps the skin and keeps the flesh moist.
Can I pan-fry fish from frozen? Defrost it first for crisp skin. Frozen skin sheds water into the pan and steams rather than crisps. Defrost overnight in the fridge and dry the skin well.
