Native or rock: an oyster primer
Every oyster sits in one of two camps. Natives are the slow-grown British originals. Rocks are the plump, year-round oyster most of us meet first. We shuck them to order at the counter or send them whole with a knife.
What is the difference between native and rock oysters?
Native oysters, Ostrea edulis, are flat and round, take four or five years to grow and taste deep and minerally with a long coppery finish. Rock oysters, Crassostrea gigas, are teardrop-shaped with a deep cup and a craggy ridged shell, grow much faster, carry plumper meat and taste cleaner and brighter, with a note of cucumber and cream. Natives cost more because the beds are limited and the growing is slow. Rocks are the everyday oyster.
What is the R months rule?
The R months rule says eat native oysters only in months with an R in the name, roughly September through to April. Through the warmer months without an R the natives are spawning, the meat turns soft and milky and they come off the counter until they come good again. The rule applies to natives. Rock oysters are sold all year.
When are native oysters in season?
Native oysters are in season from September to April. That is when the beds are cold, the oysters are firm and full and the flavour runs deepest. The autumn opening is the moment oyster eaters wait for all year.
Can you eat oysters all year round?
Yes, because rock oysters are available all year and carry the calendar when natives are resting. Rocks do soften a touch through their own high-summer spawning, so ask on the day and we will steer you to whatever is eating well.
How do you shuck an oyster safely?
Fold a thick tea towel into a pad and set the oyster on it cupped-side down with the pointed hinge poking out, holding it firm through the towel so your hand stays clear of the blade. Work the tip of a shucking knife into the hinge and twist steadily until you feel the pop that means the seal has gone. Slide the blade flat along the inside of the top shell to cut the muscle, lift the lid away and run the knife under the oyster to free it from the cup. Pick out any grit and keep every drop of the liquor, which is half the flavour.
Use a proper shucking knife with a short, stout blade and a guard. A kitchen knife slips, and a slipped blade is how most oyster injuries happen. We will open them for you at the counter and pack them on ice ready to serve.
How should you store oysters before shucking?
Keep oysters cupped-side down on a tray of crushed ice right up to the moment you shuck, so the liquor stays in the shell and the oyster stays cold and alive. Never store them in fresh water or in a sealed bag.
How should you serve oysters?
Natives want as little as possible. A squeeze of lemon, maybe a single turn of black pepper, then get out of the way and let the mineral depth do the talking. Rocks take more company and enjoy it: a mignonette of red wine vinegar with finely diced shallot cuts the richness, and a dot of Tabasco suits them. Serve either the moment they are open, ice-cold and straight off the tray, with cold bread and good butter.
Come and see what is on the ice at 18 Barnes High Street. We open them to order or send them whole with a knife.
